There was something I wanted to sew for a long, long time: a party gown, something fancy, something lacy, something shiny. But how often do I get the occasion to be invited to events which call for a party dress. Not very often, and in all honesty, I don’t thing I will wear such a dress anyway. So when Juliette asked me to make her prom dress, I kept a straight face as much as I could, but I was all jumping and somersaulting inside.
We picked the fabric in the Fashion district when we were in LA. Juliette had a very precise idea of what she wanted: lace corset and flirty skirt all in very light dusty pink, thanks Pinterest for all the ideas. Our fabric was a bit darker, and heavier, and the lace has large clusters of flowers.
Pattern-wise, I used the Esplanade pattern from Orange Studio for the top, fulfilling my dream to tip my toes in lingerie making. For the skirt I finally got to use my book Sew many Dresses, choosing the bias long skirt.
I made a couple of muslins of the bra part. The first seemed a bit small, but I should have put the wires in. Instead I went a size up, and the cups ended up a bit big (hello bra padding!). Once I decided on the cups size, I removed 1/2 from the bridge width, lengthen the body parts by 2 1/2 inches and finally added 2 1/2 inches on the with of the band to account for the fact I was not going to use a hook band. Also, I made some straps to comply with the School rules and regulation on girls attire (don’t start me on this, we don’t have enough time…). The straps have elastic inside to make sure that they don’t drop of the shoulders. Once all the pieces were cut into the main fabric, I placed them on the lace choosing where the pattern will fall. The lace goes slightly over the upper cut to add a bit of detail.
The pattern instructions are very well details and lots of drawings which make for a very smooth construction. Because all the pieces are cut in the bias, I pinned a L O T, took my time and everything got into places like a perfect jigsaw. I found attaching the underwire casing difficult, at some point there were probably 10 layers of fabric/lace/foam. My seam, where the cups meet the bodice parts, could be better, but I don’t expect anybody to look there too closely, right! I covered the inside seams with bias, so no scratching my princess’ skin.
As you imagine, bra making requires special trimmings. I got my special foam, elastics, wires, casing from Taylor Made. I can only recommend Taylor Made, Ying sent everything very fast and was very encouraging.
Now the skirt: a while ago I got this book Sew Many Dresses. I like the dresses, I like the concept of having different bodices, skirts, sleeves… but I never got to sew anything out of it. I might have been a bit overwhelmed by all the possibilities. The pattern need to be traced, assembled and that was not my preferred step, but the fit is great (on Juliette anyway). I did reduce the train thought as it was probably not very practical for a young person about to dance at a prom. Apart from that, there’s not much to be said about it, only three seams.
Finally, I attached the bodice to the skirt, I have been very lucky as they went perfectly together. I had to remove almost 2 inches from the bodice so the waist of the skirt would stay spot on for Juliette.
I think she liked it. And gosh, she looked good in the dress (OK, I’ve said that before, but she would look good in anything anyway).
- I LOVED making this dress.
- Bra making is not as scary as it seems.
- I still can get over the fact that I made it. It is probably my best sewing project so far.
- I am having prom-dress-making withdrawals symptoms, any other project I think about sound dull.